@mrhaddy

Quote:

battery was reading 2.9v so it seems to be the problem , also all was running great until i put in a radeon 9200se

Please read the following threads that refer to 9200SE:
http://amigaworld.net/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=13320&forum=14
http://amigaworld.net/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=14832&forum=3
http://amigaworld.net/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=16042&forum=12&19

The theory has been put forward that 9200SE puts more of a strain on the battery.

Similar discussion here:
http://www.morphzone.org/modules/newbb_plus/viewtopic.php?topic_id=4119&forum=9

Best Wishes,
#6

Last edited by number6 on 29-Nov-2005 at 04:06 PM.

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@number6

thanks for the links , i have read them all since yesterday
i have put back in the radeon 7000 but still cant get uboot
i think sundowns idea might fix it but i cant find the JP4 to reset cmos to default
thanks haddy

@mrhaddy

JP4 is on the µA1-C & you have an XE so the boards are not the same. There may be a re-set jumper on your XE, but maybe a safer way is to pull the battery out overnight & re-insert it in the morning. Some claim they had to pull the power plug from the wall also to eliminate all voltages that may exist. Worth a shot.

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@sundown

thanks for the info , i left it powered down but unfortunately i left the battery in.
i have removed it and will try it again in the morning

thanks haddy

@all

About battery replacement. Woudln't it be possible to cut out a round piece of plastic or cardboard the size of the battery, tape some electrodes to it and connect them to a pair of 1.5 alkaline AA batteries?

A pair of Duracell batteries must last a lot longer than this small lithium battery.

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- Don't get fooled by my avatar, I'm not like that (anymore, mostly... maybe only sometimes)
> Amiga Classic and OS4 developer for OnyxSoft.

Remember Folks ATX motherboards are alway's live if plugged into the wall so pull plug before doing any work in your machine or you risk frying your Amiga.

to reset your machine unplug it from the wall and push the power button on your A1 just to discharge any excess voltage from your PSU and remove the battery for about 1/2 hour that should do it.

As for uboot variables don't worry about them becuase all those silly things they made you type in the early day's are no longer needed and may cause you problems.

Reset to factory defualts using the menu item in uboot.
1select what your boot order is.
2 select what ide chain you are using.
save and boot
then once you boot into AOS go to prefs and from there is a nice prog called ubootprefs
that allows you to set those nice DMA variables and keyboard setups.

you should never have to type cryptic uboot variables again.

For you linux people if you have a correctly setup system the linux variable should be in your linux boot script in your a1boot drawer in your boot partition not in uboot anymore.

hope that helps

kgrach

Last edited by kgrach on 02-Dec-2005 at 12:14 AM.

@all

my amigaone has been 'dead' some times aswell, to cure it rip the power cable out of the PSU and leave it out for 5 mins, and then i plug it in and everything works again.
maybe it ain't the batterys fault in all cases?

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@Deniil715

You could connect 2 AA batteries in series, but they would probably not last as long as the lithium cell. Lets say the critical voltage in the A1 is 2.90V & new AA batteries are 1.55V each, giving 3.10V. This is where the characteristics of the 2 types of batteries comes into play. The voltage of the 2 AAs will start to drop off slowly & since there's 2 batteries, the voltage decay will be twice as fast. Once the AAs get down to 1.45V each (2.90V), you're in trouble, but the batteries would still be fairly fresh. The lithium cell, on the other hand, will hold 3V & only drop to 2.90V near the end of its life. In our case, its the voltage level thats important, not the current capacity of the battery.

If you want a longer lasting battery, then I would use a higher capacity 3V lithium. Here's a web page with some lithium batteries. lithiums The top battery is a CR2032 with 220 mAh of capacity. The 4th one down has a capacity of 850 mAh & would last about 4 times longer. Get a battery holder & I would solder the wires to the bottom of the MB across the cell holder.

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@sundown

But the AA (or C or D) batteries have so much more current to give and shouldn't drop to such low voltage until quite drained (when drain with such low current). I have a pair of duracell AA MN1500 (guessing 1500mAh) with built-in lasting-meter which says they are half full. The voltemeter says 1.44V. These batteries have been used in a portable CD player for a few hours and they have been in my cordless *optical* mouse for many hours (as backup when the rechargable dies in the middle of the day).

I'm quite confident they will last longer than this lithium battery, and they are cheaper too, right?

Well, my lithium hasn't died yet. Atleast I haven't had any problems with warm coldboots yet. Haven't powered off though, especially not with the power cord removed, for many many month.

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- Don't get fooled by my avatar, I'm not like that (anymore, mostly... maybe only sometimes)
> Amiga Classic and OS4 developer for OnyxSoft.

@kgrach

I have still no joy as yet , i bought a new battery yesterday just to make sure
will now follow your advice regarding pressing the power button when unplugged to try and discharge the excess voltage . leaving it with the battery out and powered down twice overnight has not cured it .

@mrhaddy

Then you're boned.

Unless you have another $1000USD to spend.

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@Deniil715

It's not the Ah current capacity of the source, it's the voltage level that is important for us. If you put your 2 AAs in series, you would have only 2.88V, which would be on the verge of failing in the A1. All non lithium batteries will have a faster voltage decay then a lithium, no matter how big they are. The lithium battery was developed because no other types of batteries could maintain their rated voltage output for long periods of time.

I would love to see a higher capacity lithium cell as a CR2032 replacement. Also make sure you don't buy a BR2032 as these have a lower capacity then the CR version. I've also noticed that different brands claim anywhere from 220 mAh's to 230 mAh's & I need to check that out when I have time.

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