I've found a small tutorial here:
USB-Fix

So I decided to give it a go with some modifications and put together a small board to plug to the USB-header of the A1-XE.

Is someone with knowledge willing to have a look at the board layouts and tell me which one is the best?

I'm not sure about the alternative versions, if they make sense electrically.

Here is the link to the picture:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y1d8acijwgc0lp7/A1-XE_USB-Fix5.png?dl=0



Thanks

edit: fixed first link
edit2 and 3 2nd and 3rd try to fix it.

Last edited by Amigo1 on 04-Aug-2018 at 12:44 PM.
Last edited by Amigo1 on 04-Aug-2018 at 12:43 PM.
Last edited by Amigo1 on 04-Aug-2018 at 12:41 PM.

@Amigo1

The tutorial wouldn't load for me. Thinking about this now you would have thought someone would have made a neat little plugin adaptor to fix the internal USB sockets. Even an external one for the back ports.

How are you planning to go about this? Are you making up a custom PCB board or using a prefab hobby board?

Looking at the picture. The first two look suitable for custom making your own PCB, the last one good for a hobby board. But the last one has problems. The resistors go from the data lines and then to nowhere. Except where it looks like they got wrapped around underneath. Which doesn't make sense. They should go from data line directly to ground.

Years I also did my own USB fix. This was simpler as it was solderless. Essentially plugging the resistor wires into the pins on the USB header. See here. I used 15K types.

https://amigaworld.net/modules/features/index.php?op=r&rev_id=169&cat_id=4

I also found that some devices can work when plugged into the back ports. Like SanDisk disks. See here.

https://amigaworld.net/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=42604&forum=33

Now, what you need to do for any fix, is to wire up a resistor between each D- and Gnd, and D+ and Gnd. I made a diagram as follows:

    +--15K--+
    |       |
    |   +15K+
    |   |   |
2   4   6   8   10

V+5 D-  D+  GND KEY

1   3   5   7    9
    |   |   |
    |   +15K+
    |       |
    +--15K--+

Top row:
4 to 15K to 8
6 to 15K to 8

Bottom row:
3 to 15K to 7
5 to 15K to 7

@Hypex

Hi,
thanks a lot for the reply!

Actually I was going to make a little 2cmx3cm PCB board just for myself, to learn something new and fun, not for sale.

About the option 3 layout, which is in the picture by mistake:
The upside face drawing (the very last one on the bottom) is incomplete.
To add to the confusion, the before last drawing shows the bottom side, and the bottom one, as already mentioned, the Top side.. ;)

I soldered the components on a prefabricated hobby board as a proof of concept and it actually works but it is to big to fit neatly.
Your presumption was right, the resistors are on the top side, the contacts go through the holes of the board to the bottom side and are connected to the lanes which go to the central 2x5 pin connector, where the cable for the Front USB panel is supposed to be connected to. The 4 vertical square dots on the far left and right are connected to respectively 1x4 cable with female connector at the opposite end, which then goes to the motherboards USB header.

Now about the alternative layouts in option 1 and 2:
As you can see in the normal bottom layout of both options, for each PIN in question, the lanes go from the (in)A1-XE connector to the resistors and then to the (out)connector labeled USB-HUB.
For the alternative layout, there are two lanes from each of the affected "source-PINs" of the (in)A1-XE respectively to the resistor and to the (out) USB-HUB.
So to say a fork from the source to 2 different end-points as opposed to the more "closed circuit" lanes in the non-alternative layouts. So I'm not sure it would work, but it is less difficult to build/solder.

To be true, option 1 and option 2 are different just for esthetic means. For the rare occasions when I open the A1-XE case and the little board catches my eyes.

edit: and thanks for your links, they inspired me to a much easier solution! :)

Last edited by Amigo1 on 04-Aug-2018 at 12:45 PM.

@Amigo1

I thought the bottom plan looked slightly backwards. With enough space it would be easy enough to solder the resistors in place and stand them up. To avoid any wrap arounf effects.

I forgot to mention the "3X-1A" and "BUH-BSU" which looked strange but then I saw it was backwards.

Well, at the end of the day, the simplest circuit that works would be best I think. It's a fairly simple requirement as the source plugs connect directly to the destination plugs. The wiring from in to out connnecting directly. With just the resitors crossing between the data and earth lines.

@Amigo1

I liked the back USB fix, simple no need to remove the PCB.
I only did front USB ports on my computer, as it was easy to get too.

_________________
http://lifeofliveforit.blogspot.no/
Facebook::LiveForIt Software for AmigaOS