With your settings, I've got 27,7 fps in 800x600. The previous results (9 fps) is with all settings set to the maximum (32 bits, details, lightmap,...) and 1280x1024.
IMHO there's a huge difference between vertex and lightmap lighting:
Here you have vertex lighting: As you can see it's quite "flat" and lacks shadows.
Here you have lightmap lighting: You can notice easily the shadows and more realistic lightning.
About 16bits vs 32bits it's not hard to notice it when you have effects that use transparency like lights, smoke, fire... you will notice nasty dithering everywhere.
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