Hello folks.

I found a friend who can do those fixes on my board. Are there anywhere official guides of what has to be done for those fixes? Some photos would be cool. Thanks.

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@Morphix

I think information is about somewhere. USB is something to do with the capacitors if I remember correctly.

Just get the USB done. The DMA "fix" will screw things up if you ever want to use a RadeonHD card.

@Rob

Please correct me if I am wrong but I do not think it is possible for any model of RadeonHD card to be used on XE

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@Morphix

Quote:

Please correct me if I am wrong but I do not think it is possible for any model of RadeonHD card to be used on XE

Wrong, many users have stated that RadeonHD is possible in their XE (most/all of them didn't perform the "fix", iirc).
Plus the HD gfx driver was first developed on and for such board/gfx card combinations.

I had my miggy "fixed" and it wasn't able to use a HD card afterwards (not sure if it ever was, though, as i haven't tried before)

Anyway, if your XE runs, why fix it?
It's not that all the hardware flaws will go away afterwards, if you're lucky you'll get one down, if not, you'll get two on top

@Raziel

Well the machine runs in almost perfect stability but there are some light issues.

When I press the Power ON button sometimes it would not Power ON. I would have to press it twice. And the opposite, when I want to Power OFF the machine it would not Power OFF sometimes but it would just reset. A capacitor issue? Power and reset connection on the board are correctly done.

Also the machine can run stable for ages but it would freeze on a random point of time the most of the times if it happens to move the tower a little bit...

I would then have to pull out the PSU power connector FROM the mobo Power ATX connector and put it back again, forcing it a little. Then everything would be alright again. I believe there could be some internal rusting ON the mobo connector?

Also when the PSU connector is connected on the mobo connector I would move the PSU connectors cables a little and the mobo would simply not turn on.

I generally believe that the power is not correctly delivered and that there is a internal connection problem.

The PSU is new, same symptoms with older. One.

Nothing "on board" is used on this machine I got PCI IDE Card, PCI Network card and PCI USB Card. CatWeasel included also it is a big, good project I guess.

Have been gone through random freezes MORE often on the past but after I put the correct PCI cards and set up the machine correctly they were gone. So I know want to solve that last -I believe issue-.

So I would check the board with a friend who is good on this stuff. So I am thinking of making the fixes as well.

@all

Read the above and tell me what you think! About my little strange problems.

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@Morphix

Quote:

Please correct me if I am wrong but I do not think it is possible for any model of RadeonHD card to be used on XE

As long as it in a 33Mhz PCI slot you can use a RadeonHD card in an XE. The firmware will not see the card in the 66Mhz slot and there'll not be another update to the firmware, the same issue prevents such cards being used in any slot on a Peg2. There are no suitable AGP cards due the difference in voltage.

Hans used an X1300 X1550 and HD2400 during initial development. I had an X1550 here on my XE.

There are PCI versions up to the HD5450 which are all limited to a 64-bit bus but smash the performance of any 128-bit 9000 series card. There should be no reason why a newer card couldn't be used if you get a low profile version and a PCI-PCIe adapter, this has at least been done succesfully on Sam440 flex systems. I never tried this because at the time (2008 IIRC) the adapters were prohibitively expensive. Now they are fairly cheap and can be found with suitable brackets for low profile cards.

Of course there won't be much point at the moment unless you want dual screens, so otherwise wait until A-EON release their Warp3D and see what cards are supported in 3D. There are probably a few adventurous XE owners out there who will find the sweet spot and post their results here so you won't have to take a gamble.

@Rob

Quote:

As long as it in a 33Mhz PCI slot you can use a RadeonHD card in an XE. The firmware will not see the card in the 66Mhz slot and there'll not be another update to the firmware, the same issue prevents such cards being used in any slot on a Peg2. There are no suitable AGP cards due the difference in voltage. Hans used an X1300 X1550 and HD2400 during initial development. I had an X1550 here on my XE. There are PCI versions up to the HD5450 which are all limited to a 64-bit bus but smash the performance of any 128-bit 9000 series card. There should be no reason why a newer card couldn't be used if you get a low profile version and a PCI-PCIe adapter, this has at least been done succesfully on Sam440 flex systems. I never tried this because at the time (2008 IIRC) the adapters were prohibitively expensive. Now they are fairly cheap and can be found with suitable brackets for low profile cards. Of course there won't be much point at the moment unless you want dual screens, so otherwise wait until A-EON release their Warp3D and see what cards are supported in 3D. There are probably a few adventurous XE owners out there who will find the sweet spot and post their results here so you won't have to take a gamble.

VERY interesting info about the supported cards.

REALLY thanks for this!

Perhaps it is worth a try!

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@Morphix

You have a PM.

@raumfahre

PM Replied! Thanks!

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@Morphix

None of the problems with powering on etc are not related the USB and DMA issues. Check the voltage of the batter, I did have an issue with powering up once because of the battery holders legs had fractured. I used a push pen wedged between the case and battery holder to maintain contact for couple until my bro found the time to solder in a stronger holder scavenged from a dead PC. If your friend really knows his stuff he'll probably be able solve this issue.

The USB was mostly worked around by using a hub, preferably powered I used a passive one and found that sometimes if you unplugged a device it wouldn't recognised the next device you plugged into that port. It was never a big enough deal to warrant a powered hub or PCI card. Unless you're constantly swapping out USB devices you could probably managed without the USB card unless it's USB2.0 in which case you'll obviously want to retain it

The DMA issue affected network transfers if you had on board IDE DMA enabled. There is absolutely no need for a PCI network card in an XE so you could free up that slot if need be.

Is your XE one of the early boards that shipped with the audio codec in place. The sound works perfectly.

@Morphix,

The USB fix is just a few pull down resistors so it resets when swapping devices, they "forgot" them. The DMA fix is another thing altogether.

Chris

Quote:

None of the problems with powering on etc are not related the USB and DMA issues. Check the voltage of the batter, I did have an issue with powering up once because of the battery holders legs had fractured. I used a push pen wedged between the case and battery holder to maintain contact for couple until my bro found the time to solder in a stronger holder scavenged from a dead PC. If your friend really knows his stuff he'll probably be able solve this issue.

Of course te powering issues are nit related to the usb or dma fixes. I just thought that since I will have someone to do my board a check, those could be done. Hmmm interesting point about the battery. I will check this.

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@Morphix

The power on/off issues are caused by "contact bounce" in the push-button. A proper design should have anticipated the problem, but the designer of the board was young and inexperienced in analogue circuits. You can't do anything about it unless you want to make your own power on/off circuit, external to the mobo. I did it once, just for fun, but it wasn't worth the trouble.

As others have said, don't perform the DMA "hack", it will only prevent you from using a PCI graphics card.

You can easily fix the USB problems by adding 12k - 15k pull-down resistors (to ground) to each signal line on each USB port. Your friend can do that for you, on the back of the mobo, out of sight. It will make USB connection/reconnection work properly.

"The "capacitor" myth came about because at first, when someone realised that the VIA SB chip did not terminate the signal lines, they unsoldered the small caps that were added for interference suppression and mounted the missing resistors there. That made several people think that mistakes had been made on the board, but actually, the VIA SB documentation is wrong.

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cheers
tony

Hyperion Support Forum: http://forum.hyperion-entertainment.biz/index.php

@tonyw

Thanks for the info, yes I will probably go just for the USB fix anyway.

As for the power on / off switch. I understand your point but this is not a symptom to all XE boards I guess. I had used another board that was NOT suffering from this issue.

Plus I think that the main source of my problems is the motherboard power ATX connector. There are cases that if I move it slightly the board will not power on at all. No it is not "clearly" moved I mean it remains soldered on the board. But if I try to slightly touch it "moving" it there would not be any power at all, if I touch it again pushing a little back the mobo would power, I first thought it was a cable issue. But I played with it a little bit and it is the connector I guess

On a later state the mobo would power on everything would work perfectly but it would freeze after 30-40 mins on a video playback.

Now if I open again the tower push the connector once again and randomly find a position which is "ok" the machine would not freeze at all and it will play the same movie with no freeze 3 or 4 times.

I am testing on video playback as this is stretching the machine.

PLEASE NOTE that the only "bad" sign is that single freeze after 30-40 mins of a video playback. ON THE PAST the freezes were happening lot more often but after, memory changing, New PSU, PCI IDE card usage and USB card usage they have gone. I had opened various topics on the past about it.

So I believe that the connector is the reason for that last freeze and that it has to be fixed somehow.

ANOTHER SMALL TOPIC: When I first got the board in my hands Iw as told by the original seller back on 2009 that it was a G3 module, so I guessed it was using a G3 CPU module. However on the sticker of the board I am noticing that the 7451 800Mhz PPC specs are written. I read that those specs match to a G4 model. Is there any safe solution to see if my machine is a G3 or a G4? Please see photo:

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh109/CountRaven80/WP_20150308_04_36_12_Pro_zpsdypl7gmd.jpg

Last edited by Morphix on 08-Mar-2015 at 05:06 PM.
Last edited by Morphix on 08-Mar-2015 at 05:06 PM.

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@Morphix,

The power connector is a Molex type, male pin to female plug. The female end can become a bit loose, OK guys that's enough, they sometimes need to be closed up a bit to provide a solid connection. You can probably spot the culprit by seeing if one gets warm while in use.

Chris

@QuikSanz

Thanks for the reply Chris.

Quote:

The power connector is a Molex type, male pin to female plug. The female end can become a bit loose

Yes I guess this is the type, I thought the female part was soldered on the board or not? Please see the photo.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh109/CountRaven80/WP_20150307_20_07_44_Pro_zpsu5ku6xpr.jpg

Quote:

OK guys that's enough, they sometimes need to be closed up a bit to provide a solid connection.

That is the point in my case I guess.

Quote:

You can probably spot the culprit by seeing if one gets warm while in use.

I guess you mean the female part of the connector, right?

Last edited by Morphix on 08-Mar-2015 at 06:00 PM.
Last edited by Morphix on 08-Mar-2015 at 05:49 PM.
Last edited by Morphix on 08-Mar-2015 at 05:47 PM.

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@Morphix,

You have a female socket with male pins in the photo. The male plug will house the female pins. Carefully and slowly close them up a VERY small bit with a small metal pick type tool and your all set.

Chris

@QuikSanz

Quote:

Carefully and slowly close them up a VERY small bit with a small metal pick type tool and your all set.

Do you mean the netal male pins inside the connector?

Can you please show me a pic of the tool?

Thanks Chris.

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@Morphix,

No, the female pin will look like an open circle to which the male pin fits inside of.

Something like this tool would work, I have a smaller cheaper one that is around $2, fine like a toothpick and very long for precise leverage.

Here: " http://www.lowes.com/pd_471889-295-AWL001_0__?productId=50081432&Ntt=awls+and+scratchers&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dawls%2Band%2Bscratchers&facetInfo="

@QuikSanz

Thanks a look sir.

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