@R-TEAM

It is an highend configuration as well! 2 x160GB hd, 1066Mhz, a lot of ram...

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ikir

Hi,

@ikir

hhhoo ... this is not my AOne ......[mmhh ... sad ...]
I`am only a member from this website ..

And his watercooling is VERY expensive [say ~500.- EUR] ...
but it is all cooled [CPU/GPU/HD´s/Power] and so -very silent- ..

[and it looks extrem cool ...]

R-TEAM

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My Hardware Config and GFX-Work on my HomePage



Long Live T H E [|D|A|R|K^><^E|M|P|I|R|E|]

@All
I have now testet the AmigaOne, and it still works.

It's been running dnetc for the last 30min. Without the fan on the radiator even running. (no air flow). and the Water block is barely above ambient temp. it all looks very promising.

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Yes.. i did it, despite all the warnings about overclocking. i did it to my amiga one.

I figured that now i have a very effcient cooling system up running. I would give overclocking another try.
With the old cooler i had in the system, it would very fast get to hot. but with this new water cooled setup, things are different.

First i tried it at 1000mhz (i've got a 933mhz G4). all went fine, it booted to Workbench, and was able to run Dnetc for 1 hour without any problems what so ever. With the fan running on the radiator, nothing got above ambient temp. and the whole system was running like a charm.

Then i went for the top, and set the dipswitch to 8x133mhz. it posted, and uboot reported a nice 1066mhz. BUT! it loaded the kickstart, went to a black screen and then nothing. no workbench

Clocked the system back down to 1000mhz, and started to think about the vcore, having heard so many stories about wrong vcore setings i went to read alot about the settings on intuitionbase.com. and found that my system was currently set to 1.59v which is actually the wrong setting for a 933mhz cpu. And still it was running 1000mhz, with a to low vcore setting. i was impressed.

I then changed the vcore setting to reflect the right CPU. well almost, i followed the instructions on http://www.intuitionbase.com/static.php?section=notes, and set the vcore one step below the CPU default voltage. eg. i set it to 1.79vcore.

Lo and behold, the system booted at 1066mhz, and went straight on to loading the kickstart, and voila booted the workbench. it's been running dnetc for about 30min by now, and the system is still barely varm to the touch. so all in all this is a pretty "cool" running system.

ps. i've got a load af experience overclocking PC systems, so i'm not totally new to this. but was a little carefull doing it, as replacement parts is Very hard to come by.

Word of advice to anyone. If you don't feel good about doing this, DONT TRY IT!

Small follow up: it's been running dnetc for 2 hours now, and the cooling system is stil barely hot to the touch. so i guess i could call it stable.

Last edited by LaBodilsen on 12-May-2006 at 02:39 PM.

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@LaBodilsen

So.. congratulations mate

I don't want to overclock more my A1 now... but I'm wondering how much a 1,7Ghz module can be overclocked!

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ikir

@LaBodilsen
I think you are absolutely crazy. Welcome to the group.

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ExecSG Team Lead

@ssolie

Nah, he'll be crazy the day he installs a peltier block.

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@AMiGR
Don't even kid about it, as i have thought about that for a future project but s the AmigaOne can't be clocked any higher, theres no point in doing it right now.

The day i damage my amiga is the day i'll go crazy

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@LaBodilsen

Quote:

@DWolfman Your quite the observant there arent you . well i´m able to get a piece of paper in between the water block and the yellow components you mention, so there should be clearence, but youre proberly somewhat right, and i should machine a little of the block, just to be absolutely sure.

Well, if there is a space there, then it should be ok.

Just doesn't look like it. I'll have to look at those pictures again.

Quote:

@all Thanks for all your comments and thoughts on this.

Not a problem! I've been looking into water cooling my "wind tunnel" PC that sits next to the A1 for a while, so have been doing a lot of research into it over the last year or so. I really need to get around to that, as the PC is the loudest of the bunch and is quite annoying.

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This posting, in it's entirety, is the opinion and/or statement of the author and does not reflect the views and/or position of this site.

@AMiGR

Quote:

AMiGR wrote: @ssolie Nah, he'll be crazy the day he installs a peltier block.

Are you trying to make the cooling system consume more power than the machine itself?

Hans

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http://hdrlab.org.nz/ - Amiga OS 4 projects, programming articles and more. Home of the RadeonHD driver for Amiga OS 4.x project.
https://keasigmadelta.com/ - More of my work.

And now that I've looked at the pics again, I just realized the block is not straight with the board's edges. That's what threw me off.

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This posting, in it's entirety, is the opinion and/or statement of the author and does not reflect the views and/or position of this site.

@Hans

Well, for such a low wattage processor, you could use a small peltier block, say, 70W or less. Totally pointless, but still...

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@LaBodilsen
I too have installed a water-cooled heatsink in my amiga one. Unfortunately, something is keeping
the system from booting up. I just spent around $300 sending the CPU module to the Amiga repair
center in France only to find out that the CPU module is working fine. Whatever is wrong with my system
is on the motherboard. I've checked the outputs of all the voltage regulators on the motherboard
and all are functioning. When the system is first powered on, the hard disks spin up and nothing else
happens (such as the floppy and CDROM LEDs lighting up). When the reset button is pressed, the hard disk LED lights for around 20 seconds and goes out. Subsequent resets light the hard disk LED for around 2 seconds but nothing else happens (that I can see). The Battery is fully charged at 3.20V, so I know that the battery is not the problem either. I've also verified that the reset signal is getting to the
CPU module, but this as far as I can go without schematics. Does anyone know what might be wrong?
the core voltage is still set at the same 1.59V that the system was always set at, even though for the MCP7455RX933PC, it should be set at 1.79V (changing to 1.79V did not change the system's behavior).
I really do not want to send the entire system to France, since shipping alone will cost me another $200.
Is there anyone in the USA that can determine what's wrong with my system?
:??

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@stychokiller

have you tryied attaching a serial cable to see if there is
some output from your AmigaOne?

Regards,
Paolo

@walkero

Quote:

This is becomeing even more like a PC. That's a pity!!!!

Absolutely agree.
Don't do a fridge engine or a pumpworks from your Amiga like many wintel-loosers do. It's a shame.

Last edited by r-tea on 14-May-2006 at 06:59 PM.

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I miss draggable screens in MorphOS... and do you? I know I'm in a minority unfortunately.

@pvanni
The problem is what goes on the other end of the serial cable?
The only troubleshooting device I have for the serial port is a small Collection
of LEDs that indicate the states of the various signal lines. The only line that
changes state when the AmigaOne is reset is the Rdx line (It flickers a few times
with each reset). Other lines change color (from green to red), indicating that their
voltage levels are correct.

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@r-tea
Perhaps if Eyetech had placed an adequate heatsink solution on the CPU, none of this
would be necessary.

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@stychokiller

try to reset UBoot with the battery.

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ikir

@r-tea

Quote:

Quote: This is becomeing even more like a PC. That's a pity!!!! Absolutely agree. Don't do a fridge engine or a pumpworks from your Amiga like many wintel-loosers do. It's a shame.

Well, i'm sorry to dissapoint you both here. but there was no ready made water cooling kit made for the Amiga with boing balls on it. so i had to use parts from the PC world, if i wanted to try this out.

Actually, i thought the whole idea of making the AmigaOne a standard ATX sized mainboard, was to be able to use cheap components from the PC world. eg. Most AmigaOnes sit in a pretty standard PC ATX tower, some in a Micro ATX tower. uA1 even use standard Mini-itx cases. so yes, all in all it allready look like a PC to begin with. add'ing watercooling is not going to change that either way.

And Yes, it still Boots OS4.

Regards

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@stychokiller
I'm very sorry to hear about your system. but if the CPU module is still working, and the mainboard seems ok to. you should be able to diagnose it.

As pvanni suggested, try hooking up a serial link to another computer, so you can see if uboot reports any errors this way. eg. setting up a terminal progam on the other comuter (if you have other computers, but i guess you do).

another thing you can try, and i'm only saying this because i've had this problem my self with a previous mounted Zalman VF700 cooler, is that if the Zalman cooler was tighten to hard on the CPU module, the computer would not post (power on self test), and there would not come a picture on the screen). but if i just loosend the screws a little, then the computer would work. i don't know if there is loose connection on my CPU card, but any other cooler that i have tried, have worked without a problem.

So Don't thighten the Cooler to much

Regards
/Labodilsen

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