Hi All, Seems I managed to connect my A600 power supply to a Converter the wrong way and not only did I blow the fuse in the converter I also blew the one inside the Amiga power supply. Replaced the fuse on converter, all is good. Now on the board for the A600 PS it is marked with the fuse No. T2H/250V. However when I looked at the fuse I removed from the board it said 5MF 2a 250v. So I ordered the T2H/250V and I received 5 and then I blew all 5. Because they were all a little different in the markings and I thought... So then I ordered the 5MF 2a 250V and they arrived today and I have now blown 3 of them. The Wall Socket connector has three wires (black, green and white) connected to the board and they have sparked when I insert a new fuse and turn the power on. They are showing burn marks on the underside of the board where they are soldered. It's only where these wires connect to the board and doesn't seem to involve any components. The PS is now connected to the wall socket at the correct voltage. Any help I can get from you all, would be much appreciated.

Brad Hansen

@Punkyclown

I've never had any cause to poke around in an AMIGA PSU so perhaps other members with more experience can help you better than me.

Also I confess that I am failing to understand your "converter" situation and as such I have no idea what you've actually done.

But, if someone brought me a PSU and said "I connected it up wrong, it went bang, and now it keeps blowing fuses" then the first thing I'd check for is a failed MOV.

MOVs are commonly deployed in power supply designs to protect against transients. They clamp the transient voltages and this helps prevent high voltage spikes from getting down-stream where chaos would ensue. Sometimes they can fail short and then fuses will blow all the time. Have a look for one and see if you can measure it.

But the advice I offer you here is admittedly a blind shot in the dark. I might be able to offer a more intelligent response if you can provide me with more information. Please describe exactly what has happened, and for my benefit a photo of the PSU (without cover of course) would help.

Last edited by BrianHoskins on 30-Nov-2018 at 07:34 PM.
Last edited by BrianHoskins on 30-Nov-2018 at 07:31 PM.

@BrianHoskins
Brian, thanks so much for the great advice. Converter means voltages converter.
I decided to hookup my PAL monitor and to do that I need the converter at the same time it has inputs for standard US plugs, but was running at 220. I forgot and plugged the Amiga in there. So what is and how do Locate the Mov(s)? I did take picks but couldn’t figure out how to upload them.

Brad Hansen

@Punkyclown

Hello! Please can you send me the photos to my email address (I'll send you a PM with the address) and then we'll go from there.

PS: Do I take it that you plugged a 120V appliance into 240V via the converter? That's the way around that I'd expect damage to occur. The other way around (240V appliance into 120V) shouldn't do anything under normal circumstances...

To be honest, repairs like that might be more trouble than they're worth. The innards of the PSU could be replaced entirely with a modern PSU module that works at 110V and 220/240V, such as one of the suitable Mean Well units. They're cheap, efficient and provide plenty of current for the Amiga.

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You make a good point, I think you're right @Daedalus.

@BrianHoskins
Great, could one of you possibly point me to a link.
It would also be fun to repair the one I have, just to do it.
Thanks

Brad Hansen

@Punkyclown

You can get them from various mainstream suppliers. I tend to buy them from Digi-Key, but I usually order enough other stuff to get the free shipping. Might be a different story for you in the US, but on the Digi-Key UK website, this is a list of suitable candidates.

Basically, the modules with part numbers ending in B have the 5V, +12V and -12V rails that the Amiga needs. Which one in particular suits you depends on what particular original PSU you have - some are bigger than others and so can fit a larger module. Personally, I reckon the PT-65B is a good option, and should fit most original PSU cases. It gives you a 65W PSU to replace your original 23-40W unit, and runs on any input voltage. The RPT-60B is a smaller unit if you're stuck for space, and still outputs a decent amount of power. comparable to the strongest original supplies.

The connectors can be bought too if you want to do a really tidy job (Molex 5195 series), but you can of course simply solder directly to the board.

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